Visit and Testimony of Captain Fitz-Roy
 

Page 4

From this exact transcription of the log of Captain Fitz-Roy, we can see his description of the trip to Cape Horn. Finding that this text existed was actually no surprise to me, as I had always supposed that it was he personally who had left the memorial in that spot in 1830.

HMS BEAGLE 17TH OF APRIL (Transcription)
During the early part of the day we had light variable winds, scarcely sufficient to help us against the current which seemed to set constantly into the bay, from the sea, at the rate of about one knot. The manner in which our compasses were affected in this bay was remarkable; all of them being extremely sluggish, and, unless continually shaken, they did not show the proper magnetic bearings, or agree together, nearer than two points. The compasses considered the best in other places were here as bad as the worst, the heavy ones having averaged 24 degree variations.

We passed much too close to West Cape, but having fortunately cleared it, ran along the land before a moderate breeze, and rounded Cape Spencer at dusk. The weather was so thick that Cape Horn could not be seen, and we mistook the former for the famous Cape; especially as, in that view, the lower part of Cape Spencer looked like the head of a double-horned rhinoceros: but as we drew nearer, Cape Horn appeared.

The wind failed as we entered the Bay of St. Francis, and left us the alternative of anchoring in deep water, or driving about with the current: we therefore anchored off San Joachim Cove, near the Seal Rock.

The night proved fine, so we lay patiently till next morning, and then made sail to a breeze from the northward and anchored in San Martin Cove. I afterwards went in a boat to Horn Island, to ascertain the nature of the landing, and whether it was practicable to carry any instruments to the summit of the Cape.

Many places were found where a boat might land; and more than one spot where she could be hauled ashore: so that taking instruments to the summit did not seem likely to be a very difficult task. As the weather continued favorable I returned on board that night. And the next morning (19th) arranged for a visit to Cape Horn; a memorial having been previously prepared, and securely enclosed in a stone jar.

After taking observations at noon for latitude, we set out, carrying five days' provisions, a good chronometer, and other instruments. We landed before dark. Hauled our boat up in safety on the north-east side, and established ourselves for the night on Horn Island.

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